Canaima National Park: An Unforgettable Journey Beyond Angel Falls

I threw my bags into the back, went around to the passenger side, and slid into the front seat. Moments later the wheels started turning and our journey to Canaima National Park began. We climbed to a cruising altitude of around 5,000 feet. At this height, the jungle looked a gigantic green carpet, except for the red rivers snaking through it. Our pilot followed the path of the Churun River, and as it approached the edge of the mesa, the plane took a dramatic dive along the trajectory of the mighty Angel Falls—the longest waterfall in the world—as it plummeted down into Devil’s Canyon.

2. A half hour later, we landed on a dirt strip alongside six mud huts that constitute the Pemon Indian village of Uruyen. As the trip continued, I became increasingly amazed at the lack of tourists. Nowhere was it more surprising than in Devil’s Canyon, the principal vantage point at the base of the 3,200-foot (about 975 meters) Angel Falls. It was one of the most awe-inspiring sights I have ever beheld, but almost equally incredulous was the fact that we were the only ones there!

3. How could this be? After all, you can barely move for crowds even on overcast days at Niagara. Canaima’s remoteness is one reason: there is no road access so you must charter a flight from Puerto Ordaz, a one-hour journey from the Venezuelan capital of Caracas. Flights are limited and the trip is expensive. Another major factor is that until recently, the Venezuelan government did not promote tourism to Canaima village, which gives easiest access to the Falls via a three-hour boat ride, and a moderately challenging two-hour hike.

4. The tour operators at Angel eco-tours take an interesting approach in that they emphasize the park and its people more than Angel Falls. In doing so, they create an experience that I found to be truly unique. This is in large part due to the close interaction we had with the Pemon Indians, to whom Angel eco-tours donates 5 percent of its earnings. In previous stays at indigenous villages, I had often gotten significantly to the sense that tourists were well received primarily because they contributed significantly to the village’s income. But the Pemon are extremely gracious hosts. From the moment we arrived, it was clear that they were genuinely excited to share their culture and learn about us.

5. We slept in their huts, played soccer with them, tried traditional dishes such as cassava bread dipped in a beetle-based hot sauce, and even learned a few phrases in the Pemon language (although most speak at least some Spanish). My fondest memory is of spending an evening watching three generations of Pemon, decked out in their traditional garb, performing a ceremonial dance. The show became increasingly amusing as Pemon and tourists alike drank more and more of their homemade cassava beer. Our inhibitions quickly disappeared and before we knew it, we were dancing alongside the Pemon.

6. Through our interactions with the Pemon, we gained a very special understanding of the land they inhabit. They were our guides on hiking excursions, bringing us to some of the most sacred spots. These included caves with eerie rock formations resembling human faces, towering waterfalls where we swam underneath the powerful spray, a spot in the river that formed a natural Jacuzzi, and a riverbank with pink sandstone that can be used for natural facials. As we walked through the forest, they pointed out the many trees and plants that they use for medicinal or ceremonial purposes. Given the other worldliness of the park, I was not surprised to hear that a large number of the flora, including several carnivorous plant varieties, are endemic to the region.

7. The Pemon also introduced us to their system of beliefs and spirituality. I had heard that the planet’s major energy meridians, which connect spiritual centers such as Machu Picchu and Stonehenge, all run through Canaima. After a few days, I didn’t doubt it. Nearly everyone in our group reported having extremely lucid dreams. Mysteries seemed commonplace: the sky at night constantly flickered with lightning, although there was never any thunder or rain. Supposedly, there are more UFO sightings here than anywhere in the world. Sightings or not, by the end of the trip, everyone in the group felt that their batteries had been totally recharged.

8. As much as I found the trip exhilarating, I would not say it is for everyone. Eco-tourism means responsible, low-impact travel, and generally involves some degree of ‘roughing-it’. This trip is no exception. Three of the five nights were spent in hammocks, which did not suit everyone’s natural contours. You must not be averse to sun, sweat, mosquitoes, or bathing in rivers with little or no privacy. At $1,500 per person for the week-long trip, it’s an excellent deal, but still prohibitively expensive for some people. If you can afford it, and don’t mind a few ants in your pants, this trip will provide you with incredibly unique experience that I guarantee you will never forget.